TAG Heuer Unveils Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring Technology and New Timepieces

At the Geneva Watch Days 2025, TAG Heuer introduced the TH-Carbonspring, a groundbreaking carbon hairspring that promises to redefine mechanical watchmaking. Developed entirely in-house over nearly a decade, this innovation addresses the limitations of traditional hairsprings made from steel and silicon, offering enhanced resistance to magnetism, improved shock absorption, and reduced mass for better chronometric performance. TAG Heuer has filed four patents related to this technology, with one already approved.

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Historically, hairsprings have been crucial to the accuracy of mechanical watches, with materials evolving from steel to silicon. While silicon offered advantages such as lightweight and amagnetic properties, it was also brittle and reliant on external suppliers. TAG Heuer's TH-Carbonspring aims to combine the best attributes of previous materials while eliminating their drawbacks. The new hairspring is produced using a Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) process, allowing for precise control over its structure and properties.

In-Depth: The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, And New Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models

To showcase the TH-Carbonspring, TAG Heuer has launched two limited-edition models: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring. Each model is limited to 50 pieces and features a case and dial made from forged carbon, reflecting the brand's commitment to innovation and performance.

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In addition to the TH-Carbonspring models, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera Astronomer, a new collection that reinterprets the moonphase complication. This collection includes three 39mm models, each featuring a unique lunar display that tracks the moon's phases with precision. The Carrera Astronomer is powered by the new Calibre 7 movement, with a 50-hour power reserve, and will be available starting October 2025, with prices ranging from CHF 4,350 to CHF 6,900.

TAG Heuer’s Geneva Watch Days 2025 Lineup Embraces Its Creative and Technical Ambition

Antoine Pin, TAG Heuer's CEO, emphasized the significance of the TH-Carbonspring, stating, “This is a major watchmaking breakthrough and a milestone in the history of this endlessly innovative company.” He noted that the innovation positions TAG Heuer as a serious player in the luxury watch market, independent from the silicon technology developed by competitors like the Swatch Group and Rolex.

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Despite the excitement surrounding the TH-Carbonspring, some industry observers remain cautious, noting that TAG Heuer's previous attempts at carbon hairspring technology, such as the Isograph, faced challenges and were ultimately recalled. However, TAG Heuer has expressed confidence that the extensive research and testing behind the TH-Carbonspring will ensure its success.

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The introduction of the TH-Carbonspring and the new Carrera Astronomer collection marks a significant moment for TAG Heuer, showcasing the brand's commitment to innovation and excellence in watchmaking. As the company continues to push the boundaries of technology, it aims to redefine consumer perceptions and solidify its status as a leader in the luxury watch industry.

Financial Times