The Art of Storytelling Through Costume Design: Paul Tazewell and 'Wicked'

Paul Tazewell, a prominent costume designer, has made significant contributions to Broadway, television, and film over his 30-year career. His passion for storytelling through textiles began at a young age when his mother taught him to sew. Tazewell's designs have shaped iconic productions, including the revolutionary aesthetics of *Hamilton* and the vibrant visuals of *West Side Story*. Recently, he made history as the first Black man to win the Academy Award for costume design for his work on the first *Wicked* film.

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In *Wicked: For Good*, Tazewell emphasizes the importance of costume as a narrative device. He describes his role as a storyteller, stating, “I see my work as a costume designer to be one of a storyteller, and I'm telling a silent story.” The costumes are integral to character development, revealing the identities and journeys of Glinda and Elphaba. For instance, Glinda's iridescent attire and Elphaba's weathered trench coat symbolize their respective transformations throughout the story.

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Tazewell's design choices for Elphaba, portrayed by Cynthia Erivo, reflect deeper themes of identity and societal perception. He opted for trousers to allow for athletic expression and movement, which he believes empowers the character. Tazewell explains that Elphaba's frequent choice of black clothing signifies mourning for her mother and serves as a protective armor against societal judgment. He draws parallels between Elphaba's experience and the struggles faced by individuals of color, highlighting the racial undertones present in the narrative.

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One notable design choice is the gray, chunky wool sweater worn by Elphaba during a pivotal love scene. Tazewell describes this as an organic decision based on the character's circumstances, emphasizing practicality and emotional resonance. He notes that the sweater serves as a protective garment, aligning with Elphaba's resourcefulness and connection to her environment.

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Tazewell's artistic inclinations were nurtured by a creative family environment. His grandmother was a painter, and his father had a passion for model trains, fostering a culture of artistic expression. Tazewell's upbringing included exposure to live productions, which further fueled his desire to pursue a career in the arts.

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In discussing his groundbreaking Oscar win, Tazewell reflects on the significance of representation in the industry. He acknowledges the historical context of his achievement and its implications for future generations of artists.

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• “I made the decision that I would devote myself to costume design and live vicariously through other characters.” — Paul Tazewell, Costume Designer

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• “It reveals itself adjacent to the performances of the characters.” — Paul Tazewell, on his role as a storyteller through costume.

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• “That the ability to move allowed for her to navigate the world in a way that was more expansive than being in a skirt and jacket all the time.” — Paul Tazewell, on Elphaba's trousers.

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Through his innovative designs, Paul Tazewell continues to redefine the role of costume in storytelling, making significant strides in representation and artistic expression within the theater and film industries.

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