Exploring Liguria: A Winter Road Trip Through Italy's Hidden Gem

In December, a family embarked on a road trip through Liguria, Italy, exploring its lesser-known coastal and hilltop villages, away from the more tourist-heavy areas like Cinque Terre and Portofino. This journey highlighted the region's authentic charm and culinary delights, set against a backdrop of mild winter weather.

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Starting from Nice, the family traveled to Ventimiglia, a town divided into a bustling new area and a historical upper town, città alta. They enjoyed local cuisine at Ü Funtanin, where fried calamari complemented stunning Mediterranean views. The exploration continued in Dolceacqua, where they stayed at Talking Stones, a hotel blending modern amenities with historical architecture. The family savored local specialties such as trofie pasta with pesto and barbajuan, paired with Rossese di Dolceacqua wine, known for its limited production.

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The next stop was Apricale, an artists' village characterized by its narrow alleys and vibrant murals. The family experienced the tranquility of the village, often devoid of tourists, allowing for a more intimate connection with the local culture. They also visited the central square in Apricale, bordered by historic churches and the 10th-century Castello della Lucertola, which offered a glimpse into the region's medieval past.

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The trip concluded in Sanremo, a city that contrasts sharply with the serene hilltop villages. Known for its 19th-century tourism boom, Sanremo features ornate hotels and a vibrant market filled with local delicacies. The family enjoyed a leisurely bike ride along the Pista Ciclabile, a coastal path that showcases the stunning Ligurian coastline. Dining at Osteria 1808, they indulged in housemade pasta and fresh seafood, further immersing themselves in the region's culinary heritage.

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While the family enjoyed their off-season visit, there are concerns regarding the impact of tourism on Liguria's small villages. Critics argue that increased tourist traffic, even in winter, can disrupt local life and strain resources. The balance between preserving the authenticity of these towns and accommodating visitors remains a point of contention among residents.

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Local officials have emphasized the importance of sustainable tourism practices to protect Liguria's cultural heritage. They advocate for initiatives that promote off-season travel while ensuring that the needs of local communities are met.

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• “Everything is amazing. If you don’t like it, I’ll eat it.” — Waiter at La Pasta di Ü

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• “How it should be,” said my brother-in-law, referring to the complimentary bites with drinks at Re Maggiore.

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• “For Liguria is a place to live firmly in the moment.” — Family traveler reflecting on their experience.

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This family road trip through Liguria not only showcased the region's culinary and cultural richness but also highlighted the ongoing dialogue about the effects of tourism on local communities.

The Guardian