Japan's Bear Meat Culinary Craze Amid Rising Attacks

Japan has experienced a significant increase in bear attacks, with a record 13 fatalities reported this year. This alarming trend has prompted local authorities to cull bears to mitigate the threat, leading to a burgeoning demand for bear meat in restaurants. In Chichibu, a city near Tokyo, Koji Suzuki, a hunter and restaurant owner, has noted a dramatic rise in customers seeking grilled bear cuts and hot pot dishes. “With news about bears growing, the number of customers who want to eat their meat has increased a lot,” Suzuki stated.

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The Japanese government has taken measures to address the bear population crisis, deploying troops to assist in trapping and hunting bears. In the first half of the fiscal year, over 9,100 bears have been culled, a number that surpasses the total for the entire previous year. Factors contributing to the rising bear population include a declining human population and poor acorn harvests, which drive bears into urban areas in search of food. The government aims to turn this crisis into an opportunity by promoting bear meat as a sustainable culinary option.

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The government has allocated approximately $118 million in subsidies to local authorities for bear population control and to encourage sustainable consumption of bear meat. This initiative is seen as a way to generate income for rural communities affected by bear encounters. Restaurants like those owned by Katsuhiko Kakuta in Aomori have reported selling out of bear meat, particularly after gaining attention from social media influencers. Kakuta emphasized the importance of utilizing the culled bears, stating, “Bear meat is a tourism resource for us.”

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Bear meat, traditionally consumed in mountainous regions of Japan, is gaining traction in urban dining scenes. Chefs are experimenting with various preparations, such as searing bear meat in red wine sauce, which has attracted a new clientele. Kiyoshi Fujimoto, a chef in Sapporo, noted an increase in interest, stating, “I think there are more people wanting to eat it now than before.” However, despite the rising popularity, much of the bear meat still goes to waste due to a lack of processing facilities.

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While the culinary trend is celebrated by some, there are concerns regarding the sustainability of culling practices and the potential for over-exploitation of bear populations. Critics argue that the focus on bear meat as a solution may overlook the need for comprehensive wildlife management strategies. The reversal of protections for bears in 2024 has raised alarms among conservationists, who fear it could lead to further declines in bear populations.

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• “With news about bears growing, the number of customers who want to eat their meat has increased a lot,” — Koji Suzuki, Restaurant Owner

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• “It is important to turn the nuisance wildlife into something positive,” — Japanese Farm Ministry

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• “Bear meat is a tourism resource for us,” — Katsuhiko Kakuta, Restaurant Owner

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This culinary craze surrounding bear meat reflects a complex interplay between wildlife management, public safety, and economic opportunity in Japan.

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