Frederick Wiseman's Culinary Exploration in "Menus Plaisirs: Les Troisgros"

Frederick Wiseman's latest documentary, "Menus Plaisirs: Les Troisgros," offers an extensive, four-hour exploration of the Michelin triple-starred Le Bois sans Feuilles restaurant in Ouches, Loire. This film marks a departure from Wiseman's traditional focus on American institutions, delving into the intricate world of gastronomy and the family-run Maison Troisgros, renowned for its culinary excellence.

The Guardian

The documentary presents a detailed examination of the restaurant's operations, showcasing various aspects such as recipe development, meal preparation, and customer interactions. Wiseman employs a cinéma vérité style, avoiding narration and allowing viewers to absorb the meticulous processes involved in high-end dining. The film captures the calm and focused atmosphere maintained by the Troisgros family, particularly highlighting Michel Troisgros and his son César, who is currently the head chef.

The Guardian

Wiseman's film emphasizes the significance of close observation in the culinary arts, illustrating how attention to detail transforms food preparation into an art form. For instance, discussions about the impact of lighting and air movement on the texture of dishes like crème brûlée reflect the depth of consideration that goes into each element of the dining experience. The film's structure alternates between intimate kitchen scenes and serene countryside visuals, enhancing the viewer's appreciation of the culinary craft.

The Guardian

While the documentary is praised for its immersive portrayal of gastronomy, some critics note that it may overreach by including elements related to the Troisgros family's adjacent hotel business. Additionally, the film's format limits the audience's experience to visual appreciation, as viewers cannot taste the culinary creations showcased on screen.

The Guardian

In reflecting on the generational transition within the Troisgros family, Wiseman captures Michel's ambivalence about passing the torch to César. This sentiment resonates throughout the film, as it explores the ongoing quest for innovation in cuisine and the challenges of letting go of established traditions.

The Guardian

• “At one point, Michel Troisgros insists that cuisine is not cinema, but real life.” — Michel Troisgros, Chef

The Guardian

• “There is always another new flavour for the chef to try, another beautiful framing for the director to make – though possibly the film’s remit is over-extended once Wiseman starts drifting into the Troisgros’ adjacent hotel business.” — Frederick Wiseman, Director

The Guardian

"Menus Plaisirs: Les Troisgros" stands as a testament to the artistry of gastronomy, inviting viewers to appreciate the dedication and craftsmanship behind fine dining. While the film may leave audiences yearning for a taste of the culinary wonders it depicts, it successfully captures the essence of a world where food is elevated to an art form through meticulous attention to detail and process.

The Guardian