Justice for Jeyasre: Transforming Garment Workers' Rights in India

The garment industry in Dindigul, Tamil Nadu, has undergone significant changes following the tragic murder of Jeyasre Kathiravel, a 21-year-old Dalit woman and employee at Natchi Apparels, a supplier for H&M Group. On January 5, 2021, her decomposing body was discovered after she failed to return home from work. V Thangadurai, her supervisor, was arrested and confessed to her rape and murder. This incident highlighted the pervasive sexual harassment faced by female workers in the factory, prompting a campaign for justice and reform.

The Guardian

In response to Kathiravel's death, the "Justice for Jeyasre" campaign emerged, spearheaded by the Tamil Nadu Textile and Common Labour Union (TTCU), which is predominantly female and majority-Dalit. The campaign garnered support from international labor rights organizations, including the Asia Floor Wage Alliance (Afwa) and Global Labor Justice (GLJ). Their efforts led to the signing of the Dindigul Agreement to End Gender-Based Violence and Harassment, which aimed to improve working conditions and protect female workers from harassment.

The Guardian

The Dindigul Agreement, inspired by a similar accord in Lesotho, was unique due to the active involvement of a local union, ensuring effective implementation at the shop floor level. Although H&M ceased sourcing from Natchi, it signed a supporting agreement with TTCU, Afwa, and GLJ, committing $300,000 to facilitate the necessary changes. Other brands, including Gap Inc. and PVH Corp, also contributed financially, despite not sourcing from Natchi directly.

The Guardian

The agreement has reportedly led to a safer working environment, with workers expressing a newfound sense of freedom and respect. Alagesan Senniappan, a senior vice-president at Eastman, noted that the agreement fostered a more inclusive atmosphere, enhancing productivity and trust between workers and management. However, despite these improvements, Natchi's business has not rebounded sufficiently. Employment levels remain below pre-2021 figures, with the factory struggling to attract high-volume buyers after losing H&M.

The Guardian

Despite the progress made, there is disappointment regarding the lack of participation from other brands in the Dindigul Agreement. Critics, including Sarosh Kuruvilla from Cornell University, argue that the factory's inability to secure new contracts is partly due to the stigma attached to its past and the perception that collective bargaining agreements may deter potential buyers. The ongoing economic challenges and a 50% reciprocal tariff imposed by the United States further complicate the situation.

The Guardian

Eastman has expressed its commitment to continue working with TTCU beyond the formal expiration of the Dindigul Agreement, indicating that the lessons learned will be applied across its other factories. H&M has stated that it remains engaged with labor organizations to prevent gender-based violence and harassment in its supply chain.

The Guardian

• “I never thought the situation of my factory would change. We women were never respected. Now we are no longer harassed and there isn’t the same feeling of hostility as before. We have real freedom. Actually, the men are scared of us now because the grievance mechanism is very strong.” — Jeyalakshmi, Natchi worker

The Guardian

• “We plan to keep working closely with TTCU, and we have already implemented the key learnings from the agreement across our other factories.” — Alagesan Senniappan, Senior Vice-President at Eastman

The Guardian

• “There are lots of brands that will not source from a factory where there’s a collective bargaining agreement or a labour management agreement because they think that’s not a good thing [for business],” — Sarosh Kuruvilla, Professor at Cornell University

The Guardian

The "Justice for Jeyasre" campaign has catalyzed significant reforms in the garment industry, but ongoing challenges highlight the complexities of sustaining these changes in a competitive global market.

The meaning and perversion of justice in today’s India