The Controversy Surrounding the Bandhgala Jacket in Indian Railways

The bandhgala jacket, a traditional Indian garment with roots in the Mughal courts and Rajasthani kingdoms, has recently become a focal point of controversy following Indian Railways Minister Ashwini Vaishnaw's declaration to remove it from the formal uniform of Indian Railways staff. Vaishnaw described the jacket as a symbol of a “colonial mindset,” asserting the need to eliminate such remnants of colonial influence from Indian society. This decision has sparked a lively debate about the garment's historical significance and its place in contemporary Indian culture.

The Guardian

The bandhgala jacket, often referred to as the “princely jacket,” has a rich history that predates British colonial rule. Its design, characterized by a high collar and tailored fit, emerged in the courts of Mughal emperor Akbar in the 16th century. Over the centuries, it evolved through various adaptations, particularly in the courts of the Rajput rulers of Jodhpur. By the late 19th century, the jacket was incorporated into the Indian Railways uniform, replacing more European-style attire. Raghavendra Rathore, a prominent Indian menswear designer and descendant of Jodhpur royalty, argues that the jacket is a refined expression of Indian tailoring, having developed over four centuries and embodying layers of Indian history.

The Guardian

Vaishnaw's remarks reflect the broader agenda of Prime Minister Narendra Modi's government, which aims to eradicate the vestiges of colonialism from Indian society. Modi has previously stated, “The goal of a developed India is to remove any trace of the colonial mindset.” While acknowledging some colonial influence in the jacket's evolution, Rathore maintains that the bandhgala has always remained fundamentally Indian. He expressed concern over what might replace the jacket in the railway uniform, emphasizing the importance of maintaining a connection to Indian heritage.

The Guardian

Critics of the government's stance argue that the bandhgala jacket is not merely a colonial relic but a significant part of India's cultural identity. Rathore highlighted the jacket's practicality in colder northern climates and its adaptation for activities like polo, which further solidified its place in Indian fashion. The removal of the bandhgala from the railway uniform raises questions about the potential loss of cultural symbols in the name of rejecting colonialism.

The Guardian

As the Indian Railways prepares to implement this change, there is considerable curiosity about what alternative uniform will be adopted. Rathore hopes that the replacement will not simply be a standard Western suit, as the bandhgala represents a unique aspect of Indian heritage that should be preserved in some form.

The Guardian

• “We have to get rid of all colonial mindset,” — Ashwini Vaishnaw, Indian Railways Minister

The Guardian

• “I think it’s unfair to say this jacket is not part of our own history or it’s the costume of another culture,” — Raghavendra Rathore, Indian Menswear Designer

The Guardian

• “The hope is it’s not just an ordinary western suit.” — Raghavendra Rathore, Indian Menswear Designer

The Guardian