Milan Menswear Fashion Week: A Study in Controversy and Creativity

Milan Menswear Fashion Week has become a focal point for discussions surrounding representation and the evolving role of fashion in society. The contrasting approaches of prominent designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons of Prada, and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana of Dolce & Gabbana, highlight the tensions between creativity and social responsibility in the fashion industry.

The Guardian

During their menswear show on January 18, 2026, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection that aimed to reflect the complexities of the current socio-political climate. Prada described the collection as "uncomfortable," indicating a deliberate choice to blend disparate elements in their designs, such as pairing a red sou’wester with a trench coat. Simons emphasized the need for designers to engage with the world around them, stating, “You cannot be in an ivory tower and not look around.” The collection sought to challenge traditional notions of masculinity, moving away from the "American corporate kind of masculine power" towards a more youthful representation.

The Guardian

In stark contrast, Dolce & Gabbana's show, titled "The Portrait of Man," faced backlash for featuring an almost entirely white cast of models, which critics labeled as a significant misstep given the show's theme of individuality. Fashion commentators, including model Bella Hadid, expressed disappointment, with Hadid noting the brand's history of controversies related to race. Dolce & Gabbana's previous incidents, such as culturally insensitive designs and derogatory remarks about China, have compounded the criticism surrounding their latest collection. The designers' intent to celebrate individuality was undermined by the lack of diversity on the runway, leading to accusations of regression.

The Guardian

The contrasting receptions of the two shows underscore a growing demand for inclusivity in fashion. Critics argue that Dolce & Gabbana's casting choices reflect a broader issue within the industry, where many brands prioritize commercial viability over social responsibility. In contrast, Prada's approach has been praised for its willingness to engage with contemporary issues, even if it results in discomfort.

Dolce & Gabbana

Prada's Raf Simons articulated the brand's intention to provoke thought and discussion through their designs, stating, “Now is a moment of big changes.” Meanwhile, Dolce & Gabbana's response to the criticism has been less clear, with no substantial public statements addressing the backlash over their casting choices.

The Guardian

As Milan Fashion Week continues, the fashion industry will likely face increased scrutiny regarding representation and the messages conveyed through collections. The divergent paths of Prada and Dolce & Gabbana may set the tone for future discussions on the responsibilities of designers in addressing societal issues through their work.

The Guardian

• “or you talk about fashion … The two things together, in this moment, are difficult.” — Miuccia Prada, Designer

The Guardian

• “We don’t want the American corporate kind of masculine power,” — Raf Simons, Designer

The Guardian

• “Shocked people actually support this company still it’s embarrassing,” — Bella Hadid, Model

The Guardian

• “Each one [man] deserves its portrait” — Dolce & Gabbana Show Notes

Dolce & Gabbana

This Milan Menswear Fashion Week has not only showcased new collections but has also ignited critical conversations about the intersection of fashion, identity, and societal values.

The Guardian