The Rise of Jewish Culinary Heritage in Madrid: Tamara Cohen's Mazál Bagel Restaurant

Tamara Cohen, a Philadelphian who became a Spanish citizen through a law granting citizenship to Sephardic Jews, opened Mazál bagel restaurant in Madrid in 2020. This establishment has become a focal point for the Jewish community in a city where bagels were previously absent. Cohen's journey began in 2015 when she moved to Spain to teach English, motivated by her desire to connect with her Sephardic roots. The Spanish law, enacted between 2015 and 2019, allowed approximately 72,000 descendants of Sephardic Jews to obtain citizenship, primarily benefiting individuals from Latin America.

Descendent of expelled Spanish Jews open Madrid bagel shopHer ancestors were expelled from Spain. Now she’s bringing bagels to Madrid.

The Jewish presence in Spain dates back centuries, with around 300,000 Jews living there before the 1492 Inquisition. Following this event, Jews faced forced conversion, exile, or death, leading to the displacement of 40,000 to 100,000 individuals. A small Jewish community began to return by the early 20th century, but the regime of Francisco Franco, which began in the 1930s, severely restricted Jewish practices. It wasn't until the 1967 religious freedom law that Jews could openly practice their faith in Spain.

Descendent of expelled Spanish Jews open Madrid bagel shop

Cohen's Mazál has not only introduced bagels to Madrid but has also rekindled interest in Jewish culinary traditions. The restaurant features a menu that includes American Jewish staples like pastrami and buffalo chicken, appealing to both locals and the Jewish diaspora. Cohen noted that her sales of challah, a traditional Jewish bread, have grown significantly, from about 10 loaves a week at the start to 90-150 loaves weekly. This growth reflects a burgeoning interest in Jewish culture among Madrileños, many of whom are unfamiliar with Jewish cuisine.

Descendent of expelled Spanish Jews open Madrid bagel shopHer ancestors were expelled from Spain. Now she’s bringing bagels to Madrid.

Despite the restaurant's success, the Jewish community in Spain has faced challenges, particularly in light of rising antisemitism. In 2024, Spain reported a 60% increase in antisemitic hate crimes, coinciding with heightened scrutiny of Israel. Cohen, who has family in Israel, initially raised funds for humanitarian efforts through her restaurant but later ceased these activities due to increasing tensions and backlash against Israel. She expressed concern about the safety of her establishment, having dealt with vandalism, including graffiti.

Descendent of expelled Spanish Jews open Madrid bagel shop

Cohen has articulated her desire for Mazál to be a comforting space for Jews in Madrid, emphasizing the importance of community and heritage. She stated, “We have sold challah every single Friday for our entire existence,” highlighting the restaurant's role in preserving Jewish traditions.

Descendent of expelled Spanish Jews open Madrid bagel shop

• “I like to think we started it,” — Tamara Cohen, Owner of Mazál

Descendent of expelled Spanish Jews open Madrid bagel shop

• “Spain had a huge population of Jews, and you say, ‘Wow, they’re all gone.” — Tamara Cohen

Descendent of expelled Spanish Jews open Madrid bagel shop

• “I’m more tense about saying anything about Israel,” — Tamara Cohen

Descendent of expelled Spanish Jews open Madrid bagel shop

Cohen's Mazál represents a significant revival of Jewish culinary heritage in Madrid, fostering a sense of community among both locals and Jews. As the restaurant continues to grow, it serves as a reminder of the rich history of Jews in Spain and the ongoing challenges they face in a changing socio-political landscape.

Descendent of expelled Spanish Jews open Madrid bagel shop