The Legacy and Closure of Abdul’s Lebanese Restaurant in Sydney

Abdul’s Lebanese Restaurant, a fixture in inner Sydney since 1968, recently closed, shocking the local community. Founded by Dib and Nizam Ghazal and named after their eldest son Abdul, the restaurant became a cornerstone for Lebanese cuisine, serving a diverse clientele that included celebrities and late-night diners. Hiba Damaa, whose family opened the restaurant, reflects on its significance as a symbol of early Lebanese migration and community spirit.

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’

The Lebanese presence in Sydney's dining scene dates back to the mid-20th century, with Wilson’s on Pitt Street claiming to be the first Lebanese restaurant, opening in 1957. By 1960, several Lebanese restaurants catered to migrants, particularly single men seeking home-cooked meals. John Betros, a local pharmacy owner, recalls the camaraderie among restaurant proprietors, noting that competition was marked by mutual respect rather than animosity.

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’

Dina Ghazal, Abdul’s daughter, describes the vibrant atmosphere of the restaurant, which often featured Arabic music and celebrations. The establishment was known for its late hours, closing at 2 AM, and for hosting events that included belly dancing, which attracted a mixed clientele. This cultural exchange contributed to a unique dining experience that resonated with both Lebanese and non-Lebanese patrons.

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’

The closure of Abdul’s is attributed to several factors, including changing demographics, rising rents, and a decline in foot traffic following the COVID-19 pandemic. Damaa highlights the challenges of maintaining a Lebanese restaurant, noting the labor-intensive nature of the cuisine and the difficulty in meeting customers' low-price expectations. Nearby restaurant owner Abraham Zailaa remarked that Surry Hills was once thriving due to local events, but now restaurants struggle to survive.

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’

The closure has sparked an outpouring of tributes from loyal customers and locals, many of whom fear that the restaurant will be replaced by a gym or corporate eatery. As the community grapples with gentrification, the loss of Abdul’s is seen as part of a broader decline in the area's cultural landscape. Despite the challenges, Omar Ghazal, who managed the restaurant at the time of its closure, has expressed optimism about a potential revival, stating that Abdul’s will “come back stronger.”

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’

Dina Ghazal emphasized her father's dedication to customer satisfaction, stating, “Dad was adamant that he wanted to cater to the Australian community who still wanted their tomato sauce with hummus and their tahini with BBQ sauce.” This sentiment reflects the restaurant's commitment to blending authentic Lebanese cuisine with local tastes.

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’

• “Dad never took his customers for granted,” — Dina Ghazal, Daughter of Abdul Ghazal

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’

• “There’d be Arabic music on, and people would have birthdays and parties there.” — Dina Ghazal

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’

• “Now local cafes and restaurants “need the support”.” — Abraham Zailaa, Owner of Fatima’s

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’

• “He always said you could not succeed in the food business if you were not generous.” — Hiba Damaa, Family Member

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’

The closure of Abdul’s Lebanese Restaurant marks a significant moment in Sydney's culinary history, reflecting the challenges faced by traditional eateries in an evolving urban landscape.

‘Dad never took his customers for granted’: remembering Abdul’s in Sydney’s ‘Little Lebanon’