Copenhagen Fashion Week: Celebrating 20 Years of Sustainability and Growth

Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) has emerged as a significant player in the global fashion landscape, marking its 20th anniversary this year. Initially launched in 2006 as a merger of two small trade fairs, CPHFW has transformed into a biannual event that attracts international editors, buyers, and influencers. The event has notably propelled Danish brands, such as Ganni and Cecilie Bahnsen, into the global spotlight. Cecilie Thorsmark, the chief executive of CPHFW, credits the founder, Eva Kruse, with a visionary approach that faced skepticism but ultimately succeeded in establishing Copenhagen as a legitimate contender among the traditional fashion capitals of New York, London, Milan, and Paris.

‘A catalyst for change’: how sustainable Copenhagen became fashion’s ‘fifth city’

A defining feature of CPHFW is its commitment to sustainability. In 2020, the event introduced a framework requiring participating brands to meet 18 minimum standards, which include banning plastic hangers and regulating textile types. This initiative aimed to combat greenwashing within the fashion industry. Initially, several brands struggled to comply, but today, over 30 brands meet these sustainability criteria. Thorsmark emphasizes that this framework has transformed CPHFW from merely a showcase into a catalyst for change within the industry.

‘A catalyst for change’: how sustainable Copenhagen became fashion’s ‘fifth city’

Danish brands have significantly benefited from their association with CPHFW. Ganni, which achieved a £500 million valuation in 2022, credits its biannual shows in Copenhagen since 2014 as pivotal to its growth and international recognition. Ditte Reffstrup, Ganni's creative director, highlights the importance of CPHFW as a main stage for their brand, allowing them to gain visibility and credibility. Similarly, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, co-founders of Baum und Pferdgarten, reflect on how the event has evolved from intimate local shows to a platform that has enabled their brand to expand into over 30 countries.

‘A catalyst for change’: how sustainable Copenhagen became fashion’s ‘fifth city’

CPHFW is also dedicated to nurturing new talent in the fashion industry. Ganni has taken on a mentorship role, assisting emerging Nordic brands to navigate the competitive landscape of global fashion weeks. Thorsmark notes that while the ambition is not to confine brands to Copenhagen indefinitely, the event aims to support their development and success.

‘A catalyst for change’: how sustainable Copenhagen became fashion’s ‘fifth city’

As part of its 20th-anniversary celebrations, CPHFW has introduced a homecoming annual slot for brands returning after showcasing elsewhere. This initiative reflects the event's commitment to fostering a supportive environment for brands, allowing them to thrive while maintaining their unique identities. The first brand to participate in this new format is Holzweiler, which recently showcased in London.

‘A catalyst for change’: how sustainable Copenhagen became fashion’s ‘fifth city’

Cecilie Thorsmark stated, “The ambition will never be to keep brands in Copenhagen forever but to support them in whatever feels relevant for the brand itself so that they continue to develop and thrive.” This sentiment underscores the event's focus on adaptability and growth for participating brands.

‘A catalyst for change’: how sustainable Copenhagen became fashion’s ‘fifth city’

• “Copenhagen fashion week has changed enormously and it has been a crucial platform for our growth as a brand.” — Rikke Baumgarten, Co-founder of Baum und Pferdgarten

‘A catalyst for change’: how sustainable Copenhagen became fashion’s ‘fifth city’

• “There is no doubt Copenhagen fashion week has been our main stage and helped us to become an international brand.” — Ditte Reffstrup, Creative Director of Ganni

‘A catalyst for change’: how sustainable Copenhagen became fashion’s ‘fifth city’

• “really underlined the potential of taking a fashion week and transforming it from a showcase event to a catalyst for change” — Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week

‘A catalyst for change’: how sustainable Copenhagen became fashion’s ‘fifth city’

Copenhagen Fashion Week's evolution over the past two decades highlights its significant role in promoting sustainability and supporting both established and emerging brands in the fashion industry.

‘A catalyst for change’: how sustainable Copenhagen became fashion’s ‘fifth city’