The Transformative Makeup and Hairstyling of *The Ugly Stepsister*

*The Ugly Stepsister*, a period body-horror black comedy, draws creative inspiration from 1970s glam rock icons, particularly Cher and Marc Bolan, while reimagining the classic fairy tale Cinderella. The film's hair and makeup designer, Anne Cathrine Sauerberg, and prosthetic makeup effects designer, Thomas Foldberg, have been nominated for an Oscar in the best makeup and hairstyling category for their innovative work. Their designs reflect a blend of flamboyant styles and grotesque transformations, aligning with the film's satirical vision directed by Emilie Blichfeldt.

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Sauerberg's approach to the film's aesthetic involved bold colors and unique hairstyles that diverged from traditional period pieces. She emphasized the importance of character definition through hair, stating, “I just said, ‘Well, that’s not going to happen,’” when discussing the initial plan to avoid wigs. With 80% of the cast requiring hair enhancements, she sourced materials from Black hair supply stores in Paris, ultimately opting for a striking white hair color to match the Scandinavian aesthetic.

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Foldberg faced challenges in creating realistic effects, particularly during a pivotal scene where the character Elvira squeezes a pimple. He experimented with various materials to achieve the desired pus effect, ultimately settling on a Vaseline mixture for its controllability. The film's body horror elements culminate in Elvira's transformation, which includes missing chunks of hair and grotesque physical alterations.

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The makeup and hairstyling choices significantly contribute to character development, particularly for Elvira, played by Lea Myren. The transformation process involved multiple layers of prosthetics, including fake cheeks and a double chin, to create a more youthful appearance. Foldberg noted the irony in how audiences initially failed to recognize the extent of the makeup effects, which were designed to appear natural for most of the film.

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Sauerberg expressed her admiration for glam rock influences, stating, “When you are a kid, you look up to people. Elvira idolizes the prince like a pop star.” Foldberg highlighted the meticulous planning involved in the makeup process, emphasizing the importance of Blichfeldt’s storyboarding in achieving the film's unique aesthetic.

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Despite the film's creative successes, some critics may argue that the extreme body horror elements could alienate viewers who prefer traditional fairy tale narratives. The juxtaposition of glam rock and grotesque transformations may not resonate with all audiences, raising questions about the film's broader appeal.

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• “The heavy makeup was because the eyelash look was critical,” — Anne Cathrine Sauerberg, Hair and Makeup Designer

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• “We tried Vaseline with some talc in it, and some wax-based stuff, and then other lubricants with thickeners in them,” — Thomas Foldberg, Prosthetic Makeup Effects Designer

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• “Emilie didn’t want it to be like a chemotherapy kind of thing, or just going thin.” — Thomas Foldberg, Prosthetic Makeup Effects Designer

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In conclusion, *The Ugly Stepsister* exemplifies a unique blend of glam rock inspiration and innovative makeup artistry, contributing to its recognition in the film industry. The creative team's dedication to character development through makeup and hairstyling has resulted in a distinctive cinematic experience that challenges traditional fairy tale conventions.

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