Enduring Legacies: The Survival of Family-Owned Chinese Restaurants in Melbourne

In Melbourne, two family-owned Chinese restaurants, Fong’s Chinese Restaurant and Kingsland Chinese Restaurant, exemplify how traditional dining establishments maintain their legacies amidst changing culinary landscapes. Both restaurants have become integral parts of their communities, serving generations of customers while preserving their unique dining experiences.

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Established in 1961 by Fong Kee Chiu, Fong’s Chinese Restaurant in Bentleigh East has been a beloved local eatery for over six decades. Betty Yung took over the restaurant in 1997, continuing the family tradition. She recalls fondly how her children grew up in the restaurant, often helping out and forming connections with patrons. “It’s like a second home for the people,” Betty states, emphasizing the familial atmosphere that defines the restaurant.

Decades of Success: How ‘Old-School’ Chinese Restaurants EndureABC News Australia

The menu features signature dishes such as sweet and sour pork and steak with black bean sauce, which have contributed to its enduring popularity. Betty’s cousin, David, notes, “We got the reputation … it stays in people’s mind,” highlighting the restaurant's commitment to quality and consistency.

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Located approximately 30 kilometers away in Boronia, Kingsland Chinese Restaurant has been a family-run establishment since the Tran family acquired it in 1991. Kevin Tran has been the chef for over three decades, with his son Graham actively involved in the business. Graham reflects on his upbringing in the restaurant, stating, “It was always fun for me to speak … with my customers, who’ve become more than just customers, who’ve been friends and family.”

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Kingsland is known for its combination bird’s nest and offers a menu of around 100 Cantonese dishes. Graham emphasizes that the dining experience extends beyond food, stating, “There’s more than just the food … it’s more on your dining experience.” The restaurant's nostalgic ambiance, preserved since the 1970s, continues to attract multi-generational families seeking familiar tastes and experiences.

Decades of Success: How ‘Old-School’ Chinese Restaurants Endure

Both Fong’s and Kingsland restaurants prioritize traditional service and a homey atmosphere. Betty encourages customers to feel at home, while Graham highlights the importance of personal service, stating, “We like our old-school service.” This approach fosters strong community ties, ensuring that patrons return not just for the food but for the connections they have built over the years.

Decades of Success: How ‘Old-School’ Chinese Restaurants Endure

Despite their successes, both restaurants face challenges from evolving food trends and new dining options. Critics argue that the traditional model may struggle to compete with modern culinary innovations. However, the enduring popularity of Fong’s and Kingsland suggests that their commitment to quality, community, and nostalgia resonates with customers, allowing them to thrive.

Decades of Success: How ‘Old-School’ Chinese Restaurants Endure

• “It's like a second home for the people,” — Betty Yung, Owner of Fong’s Chinese Restaurant

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• “There’s a romance around it,” — Graham Tran, Owner of Kingsland Chinese Restaurant

Decades of Success: How ‘Old-School’ Chinese Restaurants Endure

• “We got the reputation… it stays in people’s mind,” — David, Cousin of Betty Yung

Decades of Success: How ‘Old-School’ Chinese Restaurants Endure

As both restaurants continue to serve their communities, they embody the spirit of family and tradition, ensuring that their legacies endure for future generations.

Decades of Success: How ‘Old-School’ Chinese Restaurants Endure