Full Breakdown
The American-Made Hemp Shirt Experiment: A New Era for Domestic Textile Production
2/18/2026, 4:54:55 AM
From Prohibition to Production: The Revival of Hemp in America
In 2020, a hemp crop was harvested in north-central Montana, marking the beginning of a trial run by IND Hemp and Smith and Rogue to produce clothing domestically. This initiative emerged after nearly a century of prohibition, which ended in 2018 when Congress lifted federal restrictions on hemp cultivation. Historically, hemp was a staple crop in America, grown by figures like Thomas Jefferson, but its production dwindled after the 1937 Marihuana Tax Act. Although Montana legalized industrial hemp cultivation in 2001, it wasn't until the 2018 Farm Bill that significant production resumed, with Montana farmers harvesting 2,400 acres of hemp in 2024.
The Supply Chain Challenge
The journey from hemp crop to finished shirt involved a complex supply chain. IND Hemp, founded in 2018, initially focused on producing hemp seed oils but pivoted to fiber production in 2022. The company faced challenges in sourcing equipment and expertise domestically, as much of the necessary machinery was manufactured abroad, particularly in France. The Fort Benton facility specializes in decortication, a process that separates the hemp fiber from its woody core. Despite the legal revival of hemp, the infrastructure for processing and manufacturing textiles in the U.S. has largely diminished over the decades.
The Benton Work Shirt: A Case Study
Smith and Rogue's first American-made hemp product, the Benton work shirt, was launched in December 2025. This shirt, priced at $150, is made from a blend of Montana-grown hemp and Arizona cotton. The production process involved multiple states, with the fibers traveling from Fort Benton to North Carolina for refinement and then to South Carolina for weaving. The shirt's development faced delays, including a lost shipment of fabric, highlighting the logistical challenges of domestic textile manufacturing.
Economic Implications and Consumer Response
The Benton shirt's price reflects the complexities and costs associated with U.S. manufacturing. While overseas production benefits from scale and lower labor costs, it often raises ethical concerns regarding worker conditions. Smith and Rogue aims to market the Benton shirt not just as a product but as a symbol of sustainable, American-made clothing. Despite the higher price point, there is a segment of consumers willing to pay for domestically produced goods.
Future Prospects and Hybrid Models
Looking ahead, both IND Hemp and Smith and Rogue plan to expand their offerings, potentially including outerwear and pants. They aim to leverage their experiences from the Benton shirt to streamline production and reduce costs. A hybrid model, combining American-sourced hemp with overseas manufacturing capabilities, is also being considered to meet larger market demands. As Morgan Tweet, co-founder of IND Hemp, noted, while opportunities for a fully domestic supply chain exist, they may not be sufficient to satisfy the broader consumer market.
Verbatim Quotes
- “Honestly, it was just: Can we do it? Because it hadn’t happened in, arguably, 100 years,” — Morgan Tweet, Co-founder and CEO of IND Hemp
- “We saw there was a demand for a more durable, more sustainable, higher quality fiber,” — Brandon Kishpaugh, Apparel Merchandiser at Smith and Rogue
- “If you don’t know what it is, it’s just going to look like another button-up shirt.” — Brandon Kishpaugh
Conclusion
The American-made hemp shirt experiment represents a significant step toward revitalizing domestic textile production. While challenges remain, the initiative underscores the potential for sustainable practices in the fashion industry and the importance of local sourcing in a globalized economy.
