Exploring the Serra da Estrela: A Winter Retreat in Portugal

The Serra da Estrela, Portugal's highest mountain range, offers a unique winter experience characterized by its breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage. Guided by João Pedro Sousa, visitors navigate the region's snowy trails, marked by mariolas—small cairns of rocks that indicate the path. The area is recognized for its remarkable biodiversity and geology, having been designated a UNESCO Global Geopark in 2020. The town of Manteigas, nestled in the Zêzere valley, serves as a modest hub for tourism, providing access to over 100 miles of hiking trails that traverse diverse terrains.

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Manteigas has a storied past, once serving as a health resort for tuberculosis patients in the early 20th century, akin to Switzerland's renowned health retreats. The Casa das Penhas Douradas, a design-led hotel, embodies this history, having been established in a renovated sanatorium. The hotel not only offers modern amenities but also plays a pivotal role in preserving local crafts, particularly the burel fabric, a traditional wool weave used for shepherds' capes. Isabel Costa, the hotel's owner, revitalized the local textile industry by reopening the Burel Factory in 2010, which now produces vibrant, modern designs while employing skilled artisans.

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The success of local initiatives has led to economic revitalization in Manteigas. The opening of the town's first five-star hotel, Casa de São Lourenço, in 2018, alongside the ongoing development of a third property, has created job opportunities that encourage young residents to remain in the area. The local school has reopened, and burel fabric has gained popularity in urban centers like Lisbon and Porto, showcasing a once-overlooked art form. Isabel Costa emphasizes the unique charm of Manteigas, stating, “The nature, the people – it’s like nowhere else in Portugal.”

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During winter, Manteigas transforms into a serene retreat, inviting visitors to savor hearty local cuisine and explore its scenic trails. The town features a quaint commercial lane with shops selling traditional crafts, local delicacies like Serra de Estrela sheep’s cheese, and the famous pastel de feijoca. As the weather warms, Manteigas will attract hikers and adventure enthusiasts with activities such as biking, paragliding, and climbing.

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The local tourism board highlights the importance of preserving Manteigas' cultural heritage while promoting sustainable tourism. The community's efforts to revitalize traditional crafts and enhance local amenities are seen as essential for attracting visitors year-round.

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• “The landscape changes every day so you have to learn how to read it afresh,” — João Pedro Sousa, Guide

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• “Generations of Manteigas women have worked in this business,” — Marta Neves, Seamstress

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• “It was my husband who first fell in love with Manteigas. The nature, the people – it’s like nowhere else in Portugal,” — Isabel Costa, Hotel Owner

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As visitors explore the Serra da Estrela, they are not only treated to stunning natural beauty but also become part of a community dedicated to preserving its rich history and culture.

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