V&A to Showcase Elsa Schiaparelli's Legacy in Major Retrospective

The Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) in London is set to host a significant retrospective dedicated to the influential Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli. This exhibition aims to highlight Schiaparelli not only as a couturier but also as an artist and cultural figure, showcasing over 400 objects, including garments, paintings, and sculptures. The retrospective is the first major exhibition of its kind in the UK, emphasizing Schiaparelli's innovative spirit and her collaborations with notable artists such as Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dalí.

The Guardian

Schiaparelli, who rose to prominence in the 1930s, was known for her avant-garde designs and her ability to blend fashion with art. Her work included iconic pieces like the skeleton dress and a hat resembling an upside-down shoe, which exemplified her surrealist approach. The retrospective is particularly timely, coinciding with a resurgence of interest in the Schiaparelli brand under the artistic direction of Daniel Roseberry, who has revitalized the label's image in the modern fashion landscape.

The Guardian

Daniel Roseberry, the current artistic director of Schiaparelli, has been instrumental in re-establishing the brand's relevance. He describes Schiaparelli as an "image-maker" and a "culture creator," emphasizing her role in shaping the fashion narrative of her time. Roseberry's recent collections have drawn parallels to Schiaparelli's work, utilizing humor and surrealism to engage contemporary audiences. The exhibition aims to connect Schiaparelli's historical contributions to the ongoing evolution of fashion, noting how her influence can be seen in the works of modern designers like Martin Margiela and Rei Kawakubo.

The Guardian

The V&A is optimistic about the exhibition's potential to attract large crowds, similar to previous successful retrospectives, such as the 2019 Dior exhibition, which drew over half a million visitors. The museum's strategy includes leveraging the current cultural moment, where Schiaparelli's designs have gained visibility on red carpets, worn by celebrities like Bella Hadid and Teyana Taylor. This visibility underscores the brand's ability to resonate within the "attention economy" of today.

The Guardian

While the retrospective celebrates Schiaparelli's legacy, some critics question the relevance of historical context in contemporary fashion. Roseberry himself acknowledged this concern, pondering the purpose of linking past designs to current trends. However, both he and V&A senior fashion curator Sonnet Stanfill assert that Schiaparelli's innovative spirit continues to inspire and influence modern designers, making her contributions significant in the ongoing dialogue of fashion.

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• “She was an image-maker, a culture creator, and she has been our north star with every red carpet moment since.” — Daniel Roseberry, Artistic Director of Schiaparelli

The Guardian

• “It’s easy to get caught up with the weirdness, but she also made very wearable clothes. They just happened to have a strange button or two.” — Sonnet Stanfill, Senior Fashion Curator at V&A

The Guardian

The V&A's retrospective on Elsa Schiaparelli promises to be a landmark event, celebrating a designer whose work transcended traditional fashion boundaries and continues to influence the industry today.

The Guardian