Story perspectives

Veteran Syrup Maker Warns Against Maple Industry Changes

3/9/2026

Summary

Story summary

In West Glover, Vermont, Howie Cantor, a veteran syrup maker, and his wife Stephan are finishing installing taps in their sugar bush for the maple sugaring season.
Cantor notes the maple industry has evolved, shifting away from traditional methods.
He criticizes concentrating sap before boiling, saying it diminishes the syrup's flavor complexity.
He worries the industry is abandoning terroir, which he believes is essential for preserving maple syrup's unique qualities.

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Story summary

In West Glover, Vermont, Howie Cantor, a veteran syrup maker, and his wife Stephan are finishing installing taps in their sugar bush for the maple sugaring season.
Cantor notes the maple industry has evolved, shifting away from traditional methods.
He criticizes concentrating sap before boiling, saying it diminishes the syrup's flavor complexity.
He worries the industry is abandoning terroir, which he believes is essential for preserving maple syrup's unique qualities.