Joint Seafood Expands to Transform Fish Market in Los Angeles

Liwei Liao, the owner of Joint Seafood, is set to significantly expand his operations with a new location in the Los Angeles Arts District, opening in early April. This 4,000-square-foot facility aims to quadruple the amount of fish available to restaurant clients and retail customers, increasing from a capacity of 4,000 to 5,000 pounds per week to an estimated 15,000 to 20,000 pounds. Liao's innovative approach includes the ability to dry-age fish, which he claims enhances flavors and textures while removing impurities.

New York Observer

Liao, who has established partnerships with renowned chefs such as Wolfgang Puck, Dominique Crenn, Enrique Olvera, and José Andrés, emphasizes that "fresh is boring." His goal is to revolutionize the fish market globally. During a recent industry preview party, he stated, “In 2018, we set out to change the way fish is sold all over the world. This is the next stepping stone to realizing that dream.” The new Joint Seafood will feature an omakase bar, a coffee bar, and dry-aging chambers with 14-foot ceilings, showcasing high-quality fish like Ora King salmon and Balfegó tuna.

New York Observer

The Los Angeles restaurant community has shown strong support for Liao's vision. At the preview event, various chefs and industry figures participated, showcasing dishes made with dry-aged fish. Notable attendees included chefs from Jitlada, Steep L.A., and Antico Nuovo, among others. Chef Oscar Torres of Verse praised Liao, calling him “the greatest fishmonger of our generation,” highlighting the respect he commands within the culinary world.

New York Observer

Liao's expansion is not just about increasing capacity; it represents a shift in how fish is perceived and utilized in culinary practices. By consulting for supermarket chains and aspiring to open hand-roll bars nationwide, Liao aims to make dry-aged fish accessible to both professional chefs and home cooks. His commitment to changing the fish market landscape could have lasting effects on culinary trends and consumer preferences.

New York Observer

While Liao's innovative approach has garnered significant praise, some industry insiders remain skeptical about the scalability of dry-aging fish and its acceptance among traditionalists who prioritize freshness. Critics argue that the concept may not resonate with all chefs or consumers, potentially limiting its broader adoption.

New York Observer

As Joint Seafood prepares for its grand opening, the culinary community will be watching closely to see how Liao's vision unfolds. The success of this expansion could pave the way for similar ventures in other cities, further influencing the seafood industry.

New York Observer

• “We thought it was going to be 3x,” — Liwei Liao, Owner of Joint Seafood

New York Observer

• “He’s the greatest fishmonger of our generation,” — Oscar Torres, Chef at Verse

New York Observer