Italian Regulators Investigate Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics Over Marketing to Minors

The Italian Competition Authority (AGCM) has launched an investigation into Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics, both owned by the French luxury group LVMH, for allegedly employing covert marketing strategies that promote skincare products to minors, potentially fueling a phenomenon termed "cosmeticorexia." This term describes an unhealthy obsession with skincare among young individuals, particularly those under the age of 10. The AGCM's inquiry focuses on promotional practices for products such as face masks, serums, and anti-aging creams that may mislead young consumers regarding their suitability and safety.

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The AGCM has expressed concerns that Sephora and Benefit have utilized "insidious marketing strategies" by engaging young micro-influencers to promote their products. These influencers, often tweens and teens themselves, encourage their peers to purchase cosmetics, which the AGCM argues could lead to compulsive buying behaviors among vulnerable youth. The authority has noted that these marketing tactics may omit critical information regarding product warnings and precautions, particularly for cosmetics not intended for minors.

The Guardian

Dermatologists have criticized the trend, asserting that children do not need beauty products and that early exposure to such marketing can lead to anxiety about their appearance. They emphasize that children's skin is more sensitive and that unnecessary exposure to chemicals can cause irritation and long-term skin issues. The AGCM's investigation aims to address these health risks by scrutinizing the marketing practices of these brands.

The Guardian

LVMH has stated that it, along with Sephora and Benefit, will "fully cooperate with the authorities" during the investigation. The company reaffirmed its commitment to complying with Italian regulations but did not provide further comments on the ongoing inquiry.

The Guardian

The investigation coincides with the rise of the "Sephora kids" trend, where young social media users showcase their skincare routines on platforms like TikTok and Instagram. A CBS News analysis highlighted that a significant portion of skincare content created by teen influencers lacks proper labeling as promotional material, raising concerns about the ethical implications of such marketing. One influencer, Embreigh Courtlyn, noted that brands sometimes discourage clear labeling of sponsored content, which could mislead viewers.

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The scrutiny of Sephora and Benefit comes amid a growing global movement to regulate social media usage among minors. Countries like Australia have already implemented bans on popular apps for users under 16, and several European nations, including the U.K., France, and Spain, are considering similar measures. This investigation may prompt further discussions on the responsibilities of cosmetic brands and social media platforms in protecting young consumers.

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• “These practices are linked to the broader issue of ‘cosmeticorexia’ – an obsession with skincare among minors,” — Italian Competition Authority

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• “As the investigation is ongoing, Sephora, Benefit and LVMH P&C Italy cannot share further comments at this stage, they express their willingness to fully cooperate with the authorities,” — LVMH Statement

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• “Children’s skin is more sensitive, and exposing it to unnecessary chemicals increases the risk of irritation and sensitisation later on, they say.” — Dermatologist Statement

The Guardian

This investigation highlights the need for greater scrutiny of marketing practices directed at minors and raises important questions about the impact of social media on young consumers' health and well-being.

The Guardian