Full Breakdown
Stinky Tofu Controversy in San Gabriel: Cultural Pride vs. Community Complaints
3/31/2026, 3:37:33 AM
The Core Issue: Stinky Tofu Removed from Menu
Golden Leaf, a Taiwanese restaurant in San Gabriel, California, has ceased serving its signature dish, stinky tofu, following complaints about its strong odor. The restaurant, owned by David Liao, faced approximately $1,200 in fines from the city due to the smell, which has been described as reminiscent of "gym socks soaked in pickle brine left out in the sun for a week or two." The dish, a staple in Taiwanese cuisine, has been a source of cultural pride for Liao and his customers, representing a connection to their heritage.
Background: A Longstanding Tradition
Stinky tofu, known as cho-dofu in Chinese, has been a popular item at Golden Leaf since its opening in 2014. However, complaints from a neighbor began in 2017, leading to city intervention. Liao noted that while the city issued violation notices, they never conducted an inspection to assess the odor firsthand. Despite the challenges, Liao attempted to reintroduce the dish in 2025, only to face renewed complaints and fines.
Community Perspectives: Divided Opinions
While some residents find the smell off-putting, others view stinky tofu as a comfort food that evokes feelings of home. Jennifer Shen, a local resident, stated, "When you smell that stinky tofu, you feel hungry... It just depends if you can take it or not." Liao emphasized the importance of preserving cultural dishes, arguing that the demand for stinky tofu remains strong among his customers.
Official Statements & Responses
San Gabriel City Council Member John Wu acknowledged the subjectivity of smell, noting that Golden Leaf is the only restaurant in the area facing such complaints. Wu expressed hope that Liao could find a solution, suggesting that the installation of a filtration system might be beneficial. However, Liao highlighted the prohibitive cost of such a system, estimated at $100,000, and the uncertainty of whether it would satisfy city requirements.
Criticism & Opposition: Local Business Support
Critics of the city's actions include nearby business owners who have not experienced issues with the odor. Thomas Purscelley, owner of Roxy's Liquor and Mini-Mart, stated, "David has done a really great job... We have never smelled the stinky tofu." This sentiment reflects a broader community divide regarding the enforcement of odor complaints and the cultural significance of stinky tofu.
What's Next: Future of Stinky Tofu at Golden Leaf
Liao remains committed to serving stinky tofu, stating, "No small business should have to fight this hard to cook their own culture's food." He hopes that the ongoing discussions will lead to clearer guidelines for odor regulations, allowing him to continue offering this cherished dish to his customers.
Verbatim Quotes
- “Keeping this unofficial national dish alive is crucial,” — David Liao, Owner of Golden Leaf
- “We hope the money he spends on a filtration machine will be worth it for him.” — John Wu, San Gabriel City Council Member
- “When you smell that stinky tofu, you feel hungry,” — Jennifer Shen, Local Resident
- “I think it's ridiculous,” — Thomas Purscelley, Nearby Business Owner
- “Dishes like stinky tofu have been at the heart of Taiwanese culture for centuries, and they deserve a place at the table.” — David Liao, Owner of Golden Leaf
