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V&A Dundee's "Catwalk: The Art of the Fashion Show" Exhibition Explores Fashion History

4/5/2026, 9:21:51 PM

Evolution of the Catwalk

The V&A Dundee has launched a new exhibition titled "Catwalk: The Art of the Fashion Show," which opened on April 3, 2026. This exhibition chronicles over 125 years of fashion history, illustrating the transformation of catwalk shows from intimate salon presentations to grand spectacles. The exhibition features more than 350 objects, including iconic outfits, rare film footage, and behind-the-scenes materials that highlight the creativity and ambition behind each show. Notable designers showcased include Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Dior, and Scottish talents like Christopher Kane and Charles Jeffrey.

Historical Significance

The exhibition begins with the introduction of "mannequins vivants" in the 1850s, used by fashion houses such as Worth and Paquin. Over the 20th century, the model and catwalk became essential for showcasing designs, evolving from salons to public venues like gardens and ocean liners. The rise of ready-to-wear fashion in the 1950s and 60s further revolutionized the catwalk, introducing dynamic performances characterized by models dancing and stomping to music. This shift marked the catwalk as a significant marketing tool for fashion brands.

Theatrical Elements and Modernization

The exhibition emphasizes the theatrical nature of contemporary fashion shows, showcasing memorable moments such as Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel-branded rocket launch in 2017 and Dior's castle runway in Perthshire. These events illustrate how fashion shows have become immersive spectacles, blending theatrical staging with marketing strategies. Svetlana Panova, co-curator of the exhibition, notes that fashion shows now serve as powerful marketing tools, creating a fantasy around brands.

Criticism and Cultural Reflection

While the exhibition celebrates the glamour of fashion shows, it also acknowledges their elitist perception. The central room of "Catwalk" explores the chaos backstage, highlighting the collaborative efforts of makeup artists, photographers, and stylists. Leonie Bell, the museum's director, emphasizes that the fashion industry is a collective endeavor, reflecting broader cultural and social changes since the 1960s. The exhibition aims to democratize fashion, suggesting that the runway's impact extends beyond the privileged few who attend shows.

Official Statements & Responses

Leonie Bell remarked, “The fashion show influences every single thing that we choose to wear and what we’re able to buy, so we’re trying to show that.” Svetlana Panova added, “Fashion shows become even more of a marketing tool for creating the fantasy around the brand. With that comes great ambition and great resource.”

What's Next

"Catwalk: The Art of the Fashion Show" will run until January 17, 2027. The exhibition includes interactive elements, allowing visitors to design their own fashion shows and experiment with virtual makeup styles from different decades, further engaging the public in the evolving narrative of fashion.

Verbatim Quotes

  • “The fashion show influences every single thing that we choose to wear and what we’re able to buy, so we’re trying to show that.” — Leonie Bell, Director, V&A Dundee
  • “As such, “fashion shows become even more of a marketing tool for creating the fantasy around the brand.” — Svetlana Panova, Co-curator
  • “Nobody is working in isolation,” — Leonie Bell, Director, V&A Dundee
  • “It's a very avant-garde way of modelling," she says.” — Eunice Olumide, Art Curator and Film Director
  • “There's a whole list of Scottish designers and brands and we all tap into this bigger, rich history of craft and tradition and rebellion.” — Nicholas Daley, Designer

This exhibition not only showcases the evolution of fashion but also invites reflection on its cultural significance and the collaborative nature of the industry.