Culinary Rivalry: The Battle Over Patsa and Iskembe

The ongoing culinary rivalry between Greece and Turkey has intensified with the dispute over "patsa," a traditional soup made from bovine bellies and legs, which Greece claims as its own, while Turkey refers to it as "iskembe." Dimitris Tsarouhas, a restaurateur in Thessaloniki, is leading an initiative to register patsa with UNESCO as a unique Greek delicacy, asserting its historical roots dating back to Homer's "The Odyssey." This move has sparked outrage in Turkey, where the dish is considered a cultural staple.

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The preparation of patsa is steeped in tradition, with Tsarouhas collaborating with cultural organizations and culinary historians to document its significance. He cites that the dish is mentioned in "The Odyssey," linking it to the feast prepared by Penelope for her suitors. The soup is typically enjoyed as a remedy for hangovers, garnished with seeds and hot peppers. Chef Pantazis Koukoumvris, who has over two decades of experience, emphasizes the ritualistic nature of its preparation, which involves boiling the bovine parts to create a rich broth.

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Turkish restaurateurs, including Ali Turkmen and Ali Ohtamis, argue that iskembe is a dish with deep historical ties to Turkish culture. They assert that the soup has been a comfort food in Turkey for centuries, particularly after nights of heavy drinking. Turkish media have accused Greece of appropriating a dish that is nationally celebrated, citing historical references to tripe soup in Istanbul from the 17th century. Customers at Turkish restaurants express strong sentiments against Greece's claims, insisting that the dish is an integral part of their culinary identity.

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While the debate continues, some individuals, like Christos Mousoulis from Greece, argue that patsa has been a cherished dish in Greek households for generations. He acknowledges the similarities between the Greek and Turkish versions but maintains that their cultural significance differs. This sentiment reflects a broader perspective that culinary traditions can be shared and celebrated rather than contested.

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Tsarouhas remains confident in Greece's ability to secure recognition for patsa, stating, "We believe that we have all the tools to secure and certify it as such." In contrast, Turkish restaurateurs like Turkmen express skepticism about Greece's claims, suggesting that the dish is "historically and culturally specific to Turks."

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• “If this isn’t patsa, then what else could it be?” — Dimitris Tsarouhas, Greek Restaurateur

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• “Just like with baklava and many other things, they want to claim it as their own,” — Ali Turkmen, Turkish Restaurateur

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• “Tripe soup is one of the dishes we should be promoting to the world,” Pajik said.” — Murat Pajik, Customer at Alem Iskembe

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• “I don’t think Greece is doing the right thing.” — Engin Cakar, Customer

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The dispute over patsa and iskembe highlights the complexities of cultural heritage and culinary identity in Greece and Turkey. As both nations seek to assert their claims, the conversation around shared traditions continues to evolve, raising questions about ownership and appreciation of culinary history.

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