The Resurgence of Pointelle: A Nostalgic Fashion Trend

Pointelle, a knitted fabric characterized by its openwork design, has recently gained significant popularity in the fashion industry. This resurgence is marked by high-profile appearances, such as Rosalía wearing a pointelle bodysuit during her world tour and Sabrina Carpenter showcasing pointelle underwear in Perfect magazine. Retailers like John Lewis have reported a 60% increase in online searches for pointelle, indicating a growing consumer interest. Brands such as Cou Cou Intimates and Herd are capitalizing on this trend, with Cou Cou experiencing a 150% year-over-year increase in pointelle sales.

The Guardian

The trend's revival can be traced back to designer JW Anderson, who featured pointelle garments in his 2024 collection. The aesthetic is described as nostalgic, evoking memories of childhood and simpler times. Rose Colcord, founder of Cou Cou Intimates, notes that the appeal lies in the innocence associated with pointelle, allowing wearers to embrace a carefree attitude towards fashion. This nostalgia resonates with consumers amid rapid societal changes, creating a desire for familiarity in their clothing choices.

The Guardian

While pointelle is often associated with comfort and childhood, its adoption by adult women introduces a subversive element. The juxtaposition of basic underwear on adult bodies challenges traditional notions of sexuality and femininity. Bridget Dalton, a cultural analyst, highlights the provocative nature of pointelle, especially when worn in unexpected contexts. For instance, Kristen Stewart's appearance on the cover of Rolling Stone in Y-fronts exemplifies this tension between innocence and provocation.

The Guardian

Pointelle's appeal extends beyond nostalgia and subversion; it offers a unique blend of comfort and style. Dalton argues that while contemporary fashion often emphasizes restrictive materials like spandex and latex, pointelle provides a softer, more inviting alternative. This fabric allows wearers to feel both cozy and confident, presenting a new narrative in women's fashion that prioritizes comfort without sacrificing sensuality.

The Guardian

Despite its popularity, the trend raises questions about its implications. Dalton cautions that the embrace of pointelle could inadvertently reflect the influence of traditional gender roles, particularly the "tradwife" movement. This concern highlights the need for a critical examination of how nostalgia in fashion can intersect with contemporary societal issues.

The Guardian

• “pointelle garments code this really amazing tension between warm and cold … it’s interesting to wear something that’s inherently about warmth and cosiness … on a sunny day” — Bridget Dalton, Semiotician and Cultural Analyst

The Guardian

• “culturally, people are craving nostalgia and familiarity, especially with how fast the world is changing” — Rose Colcord, Founder of Cou Cou Intimates

The Guardian

• “If grownup sexuality is coded by spandex, sequins, Lurex, even latex – these hard, shiny fabrics that restrict and contort the body and push things forward – the blanket-like quality of pointelle, the softness, the stretchiness, is the antidote to that,” — Bridget Dalton, Semiotician and Cultural Analyst

The Guardian

The resurgence of pointelle reflects a complex interplay of nostalgia, comfort, and subversion in contemporary fashion, inviting both celebration and critical reflection.

The Guardian