Record-Breaking 2026 Everest Season Faces Fatalities and Logistical Strains

The 2026 Everest climbing season saw a record issuance of permits and five fatalities. Three Nepali climbers—Phura Gyaljen Sherpa (21), Bijay Ghimire Bishwakarma (35), and Lakpa Dendi Sherpa (52)—died on Everest; Shelley Johannesen (53) died on Makalu and David Roubinek (38) on Makalu II. A large serac in the Khumbu Icefall delayed rope-fixing until early May, compressing the summit window.

Death toll reaches 5 on Everest, Makalu massifUsNews and World ReportThe Straits TimesThe IndependentEverest claims second life as Nepali climber dies in Icefall amid record-breaking springOutside OnlineOne Dead on Everest As Leadership Conflict Hastens Race to the Summit

• Permits: 492 issued (official) or 496 reported; $15,000 each; royalties ? $7.19 million.

Death toll reaches 5 on Everest, Makalu massif

• Death toll: five (three on Everest, one on Makalu, one on Makalu II).

Death toll reaches 5 on Everest, Makalu massif

• Approx. 200 Sherpas slated for Camp IV by mid-May.

One Dead on Everest As Leadership Conflict Hastens Race to the Summit

• Early April: Serac blocks Khumbu Icefall, delaying rope-fixing.

Everest claims second life as Nepali climber dies in Icefall amid record-breaking spring

• April 29: Route to Camp II opened after joint effort.

One Dead on Everest As Leadership Conflict Hastens Race to the Summit

• May 3–5: Ropes fixed to Camp IV at South Col.

One Dead on Everest As Leadership Conflict Hastens Race to the Summit

• May 4: Lakpa Dendi Sherpa dies en route to Base Camp.

Death toll reaches 5 on Everest, Makalu massif

• May 12: Phura Gyaljen Sherpa falls into crevasse; death toll reaches five.

Death toll reaches 5 on Everest, Makalu massif

Tourism officials said Everest continues to attract climbers despite Middle-East travel disruptions. The Department of Tourism highlighted the record permit count and associated royalties. Expedition leaders noted rope-fixing teams were ready to support summit bids once weather cleared. Kaitu Expeditions planned to airlift Phura Gyaljen Sherpa’s body from high camp.

The Straits Times

Guides and independent operators warned of crowding and safety risks. Mingma G of Imagine Nepal criticized delayed government action, asserting that someone must assume responsibility to manage traffic and protect climbers. He cautioned that wind expected after May 14 could exacerbate congestion given the high number of foreign climbers and Sherpas.

Associated Press

Permit totals differ (492 vs 496). The cause of Bijay Ghimire’s death is described as cardiac arrest in some reports and altitude-related illness in others. Phura Gyaljen Sherpa’s fatal fall is reported as a slip into a crevasse, but forensic details remain unavailable. Exact numbers of Sherpas on summit pushes are not precisely known.

UsNews and World Report

• “Despite the Middle East conflict, which has affected travel, tourism and trekking, Everest continues to lure an increased number of climbers,” — Himal Gautam, Nepal tourism department official

UsNews and World Report

• “We do not know the exact cause of death, but it is likely related to altitude sickness,” — Inspector Tul Bahadur Salami, Lukla police

Outside Online

• “Obviously, they are tired [and] Base Camp is the best place for them to rest and recover,” — Mingma G, Imagine Nepal leader

One Dead on Everest As Leadership Conflict Hastens Race to the Summit

• “The EOA team will carry the necessary ropes from Camp 2 to Camp 4 tomorrow,” — Expedition Operators Association of Nepal spokesperson

One Dead on Everest As Leadership Conflict Hastens Race to the Summit

The main summit window is projected for May 13–14, after which winds are expected to rise. Operators have asked the government for helicopter support to speed rope-fixing and for an extension of the season beyond the usual May 29 deadline. Weather and ice-fall monitoring will determine final ascent plans.

Outside Online