Full Breakdown
American Climber Killed in Makalu Avalanche Highlights Season Risks
5/13/2026, 12:05:00 AM
Fatal Incident on Makalu
On May 9 2026, American mountaineer Shelley Johannesen died after an avalanche struck her party while descending Mount Makalu (8,485 m), the fifth-highest peak in Nepal. The slide occurred just below Camp 3 at roughly 7,200 m (?23,600 ft).
Background & Context
The 2026 spring climbing season in Nepal issued over 1,000 permits for 30 mountains, including 72 for Makalu and a record 492 for Everest. So far, five climbers have died: Czech alpinist David Roubinek, three Nepali guides, and Johannesen.
Key Participants
Johannesen, reported as 53 (CBS) or 59 (other sources), co-founded U.S. outfitter Dash Adventures. Her climbing partner was David Ashley, also a co-founder. The expedition included Sherpa guides Tawa and Phurba Sonam.
Chronology
May 8–9: Multiple teams, including Johannesen’s, summit Makalu at 10:30 a.m. on May 9. May 9 night: camp at Camp 3. May 10 morning (or May 9 Monday per other reports): avalanche below Camp 3 kills Johannesen; Ashley and Tawa injured. Survivors airlifted to Kathmandu; Johannesen’s body recovered later.
Official Statements
Expedition Himalaya managing director Nabin Trital described the incident as an avalanche that struck just below Camp 3. David Ashley expressed his heartbreak and praised Johannesen as an incredible person who lived without limits. Navin Trital noted that a helicopter retrieved her body after six Sherpas carried her to Camp 2.
On-the-Ground Reports
Climbers at Camp 2 rushed to the site, extracting Sherpa Phurba Sonam alive. Six Sherpas carried Johannesen down to Camp 2, where a helicopter evacuated injured Ashley and Tawa to Kathmandu.
Conflicting Reports & Gaps
Sources differ on Johannesen’s age (53 vs 59), the avalanche date (Monday May 9 vs Sunday May 10), and the slide’s elevation (23,600 ft, 7,200 m, or 7,000 m). Rope failure is described as a “section gave way” and as a “fixed rope” break, without technical detail. Earlier guide deaths are noted but not named.
Verbatim Quotes
- “She was hit by an avalanche just below Camp 3,” — Nabin Trital, Expedition Himalaya
- “Shelley was not just an incredible person, but lived her life with no limits and chased her passions around the world,” — David Ashley, Dash Adventures
- “heartbroken” — David Ashley, Social
- “on May 9, and according to Phunuru Sherpa of 14 Peaks Expeditions, the avalanche struck below camp three near a section secured with fixed rope.” — Phunuru Sherpa, 14 Peaks
Implications
The incident underscores the ongoing avalanche and rope-fixing hazards on demanding peaks such as Makalu, reinforcing the reminder of the “no-fall zones” and the risks faced by high-altitude athletes. Her death raises the season’s total fatalities to five.
What’s Next
The season remains active, with more than 1,000 permits already issued for 30 mountains, including 72 for Makalu.
