Full Breakdown
Nepali Sherpas Set New Everest Records in Historic Dual Summit
5/17/2026, 10:57:51 PM
Record-Breaking Ascents on 17 May 2026
On 17 May 2026 veteran guide Kami Rita Sherpa reached the 8 849 m summit of Mount Everest for a 32nd time, leading an expedition of the 14 Peaks Expedition company. Minutes earlier, Lhakpa Sherpa attained her 11th summit, extending the women’s record. Both climbers began their descents shortly after the successful ascents.
Background: Nepal’s Mountaineering Legacy
Everest was first scaled in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Since then, Nepali Sherpas have become the backbone of high-altitude guiding, turning mountaineering into a major source of income. The 2026 spring season saw a surge in permits, reflecting a broader climbing boom that has made Everest a lucrative tourism asset.
Profiles of the Record Holders
- Kami Rita Sherpa – born in Thame village, Solukhumbu (sources differ on birth year: 1970 or 1973). First summit in 1994; has guided clients almost annually, missing only 2014, 2015 and 2020 when expeditions were halted. He is nicknamed “Everest Man” and is credited with more than 45 climbs of peaks above 8 000 m.
- Lhakpa Sherpa – known as the “Mountain Queen,” born in Makalu-2, Sankhuwasabha district (alternative source lists birth year 1973). First summit in 2000, becoming the first Nepali woman to reach the top. She now holds the women’s record with eleven ascents.
Statistics and Scale of the 2026 Season
- Everest permits issued: 492 (Tourism Department) vs. 494 (Seven Summit Treks).
- Approximately 1 000 climbers expected to attempt the summit in the ensuing days.
- Over 8 000 individuals have summited Everest since 1953.
- Non-Sherpa record: British guide Kenton Cool (19 ascents); Americans Dave Hahn and Garrett Madison (15 each).
- Kami Rita’s total 8000-metre climbs exceed 45.
Official Responses
The Nepal Department of Tourism congratulated both climbers, describing Kami Rita’s feat as a “historic milestone” that enhances Nepal’s mountaineering sector and international profile. The department’s spokesperson highlighted the contribution of such records to the country’s tourism image. Seven Summit Treks announced preparations for a grand welcome in Kathmandu.
Criticism & Concerns
Tourism officials warned that the record number of permits revives worries about overcrowding, especially if adverse weather narrows the climbing window. Safety advocates stress that dense traffic can increase risks on the already hazardous routes.
Conflicting Reports & Gaps
- Age/Birth year: Kami Rita is listed as 56 in some sources and 55 in others; birth year cited as 1970 and 1973.
- Permit count: Reported as 492 and 494.
- Lhakpa’s birthplace: Identified as Makalu-2, Sankhuwasabha district, while another source only provides a birth year.
- Detailed route information and client lists for the 2026 ascents remain unavailable.
Verbatim Quotes
- “This is another milestone in Nepal’s mountaineering history,” — Himal Gautam, spokesperson, Nepal Tourism Department
- “Their record gives greater excitement to other climbers,” — Himal Gautam, spokesperson, Nepal Tourism Department
- “By breaking records through healthy competition on Everest, will help make climbing safer, more dignified, and better managed.” — Himal Gautam, spokesperson, Nepal Tourism Department
- “After his 32nd successful summit, Kami Rita and his team are currently descending toward base camp,” — Seven Summit Treks (Facebook post)
- “Both climbers were descending with their teams after successful ascents,” — Khimlal Gautam, coordinator, Department of Tourism Everest Base Camp
What’s Next
The Department of Tourism will monitor the remainder of the 2026 climbing season for safety and environmental impact. Ongoing discussions aim to refine permit allocation and crowd-management strategies to balance tourism revenue with climber welfare.
