Full Breakdown
Texas Barbecue Joints Face Wave of Closures as Beef Prices Surge
5/27/2026, 10:55:55 PM
Soaring Beef Costs Force Closures Across Texas
Rising wholesale brisket prices—$5 to $6 per pound before trimming and smoking—have pushed many Texas barbecue establishments to shut. Notable closures include Brett’s BBQ Shop (Katy), Kirby’s BBQ (New Caney), Sabar Barbecue (Fort Worth), Wright On Taco & BBQ (East Texas), Hill City Chop House (Tolar), Sweetie Pie’s Ribeyes (North Texas) and Burnt Bean Co. (Seguin). Some venues now charge $35 to $40 per pound of brisket, with full meals reaching $70 to $100.
Background: Supply Constraints and Rising Input Costs
The United States Department of Agriculture reports the national cattle herd fell to 86.2 million head on Jan. 1, the lowest start-of-year level since 1951. Drought-affected pastures, soaring feed prices, higher interest rates for replacement heifers, and broader inflation have all contributed. The U.S. Department of Labor’s latest CPI data shows beef and veal prices up 14.8 % year-over-year in April, with ground beef up 14.5 % and steaks up 16.1 %.
Key Industry Voices
- Russell Roegels, Houston-area pitmaster (Washington Post).
- Shawn Jones, owner of Kirby’s BBQ.
- Justin Manning, co-owner of C&J Barbecue (Bryan).
- Ernest Servantes, owner of Wright On Taco & BBQ.
- Emily Williams Knight, CEO, Texas Restaurant Association.
- David P. Anderson, professor of agricultural economics, Texas A&M University.
Data & Statistics
- Wholesale brisket: $5-$6 lb?¹; cooked meat cost > $10 lb?¹ after trimming.
- Consumer brisket price: $35-$40 lb?¹; full barbecue plate $70-$100.
- Meat sales reached $112 billion in 2023; > 98 % of U.S. households purchase meat.
- USDA forecasts an additional 12.1 % rise in beef and veal prices this year.
Why It Matters: Impact on Texas Culture and Economy
Barbecue is a cultural staple and a significant draw for tourism and local employment. The loss of iconic joints reduces culinary diversity, threatens jobs in smokehouses and supply chains, and limits affordable dining options for middle-class Texans.
Official Statements & Responses
Texas Attorney General Ken Paxton announced investigations into possible anti-competitive conduct by major meatpackers, citing concerns that ranchers are underpaid while prices soar for consumers and restaurants. The Texas Restaurant Association, through its CEO, warned that independent barbecue venues lack viable alternatives to brisket, making them especially vulnerable. USDA officials reiterated their forecast of continued price increases and emphasized ongoing monitoring of supply-side constraints.
Criticism & Opposition
Pitmasters and owners have pointed to consolidation in the meat-packing sector—four firms dominate U.S. beef processing—as a driver of price pressure. They argue that limited competition restricts the ability of restaurants to obtain affordable beef, exacerbating the crisis beyond normal market dynamics.
On-the-Ground Reports
Shawn Jones posted a YouTube video describing “absolutely insane” beef prices and the resulting decline in customer demand. Ernest Servantes characterized his operation as being in “survival mode” with “no end in sight.” Justin Manning noted that achieving a margin would require selling brisket at $40 lb?¹, a price he deems unattainable for most diners.
Conflicting Reports & Gaps
Sources differ on the exact consumer price of brisket—some cite $36 lb?¹, others $38 lb?¹. While the Washington Post and Newsweek report numerous closures, no comprehensive count of shuttered establishments is provided, leaving the total impact uncertain.
Verbatim Quotes
- “Everybody’s at risk these days: You’re one bad week from closing.” — Russell Roegels, Pitmaster
- “When brisket costs $36 a pound for the consumer and then you got ribs and sausage and sides and desserts and all that … you can easily be spending $70 to $100 for barbecue,” — Shawn Jones, Owner, Kirby’s BBQ
- “To have a margin, I would need to be selling beef for $40 a pound, which no one can do,” — Justin Manning, Co-owner, C&J Barbecue
- “If you’re a barbecue restaurant, you don’t really have anywhere to move,” — Emily Williams Knight, CEO, Texas Restaurant Association
- “Now we don’t see any end in sight, and it’s going to get scary here.” — Ernest Servantes, Owner, Wright On Taco & BBQ
- “Grilling season has begun and that always lends a seasonal boost to beef demand and prices.” — David P. Anderson, Professor, Texas A&M
What’s Next
State investigations into meat-packing practices are underway, and federal agencies continue to monitor supply-side pressures. Some restaurants are experimenting with menu adjustments—such as limiting brisket service days or incorporating “dirty rice” dishes—to stretch protein supplies. Industry analysts caution that price normalization may take years, suggesting that many barbecue establishments will need to adapt or risk permanent closure.
