Drought Forces Temporary Relaxation of France’s AOP Cheese Rules

In response to an unprecedented summer drought that dried out grazing pastures across most of mainland France, the government announced a temporary amendment to the strict “appellation d’origine protégée” (AOP) regulations governing several iconic cheeses. Producers of Comté, Beaufort and Abondance may now supplement cattle feed with imported fodder and grain, a departure from the usual requirement that animals graze on designated local pastures.

The Guardian

AOP status obliges cheese makers to follow rigid rules on animal grazing locations and feed composition to preserve traditional methods and regional identity. The National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO), which enforces these rules, described the July drought as “historic,” noting that it affected 95 % of mainland France. The severity of the heatwaves has left normally lush pastures dry, yellow and barren, threatening the viability of traditional dairy operations.

The Guardian

Comté remains France’s top-selling traditional cheese, with more than 62,000 tonnes produced last year. Yet dairy farmer Hubert Genty of Normandy reported that scorched grass has reduced milk yields, forcing his wife Angélique to cut daily cheese output from 600-700 units to roughly 400-450. The French agriculture ministry’s statistical service said that on August 10 growth on permanent grasslands was one-third below the 1989-2018 average, and the ministry earlier described the fodder situation as “highly degraded” in almost all regions. According to the local newspaper *La Montagne*, about 70 % of Salers-AOP cheese producers halted production over the summer. The French union of potato farmers (UNPT) warned of a projected 23 % drop in the current potato crop, while cider makers and wine growers have also voiced concerns about reduced yields.

The Guardian

The INAO confirmed it will grant temporary relief not only to Comté, Beaufort and Abondance but also to other AOP cheeses such as Reblochon, Cantal, Bleu d’Auvergne and Fourme d’Ambert. Agriculture minister Annie Genevard is scheduled to hold crisis talks with local authorities next week before announcing further emergency measures for farmers.

The Guardian

Beyond dairy, the drought has strained the vegetable sector, with potato growers anticipating a 23 % decline and apple orchards reporting lower yields for cider production. Early grape ripening adds uncertainty to the wine harvest, underscoring the wider economic pressure on France’s rural communities as climate-related heatwaves become more frequent.

The Guardian