Full Breakdown
Texas Barbecue Joints Drop Brisket Amid Soaring Beef Prices
By Drooid · · How we work
The Decision to Pull Brisket
Butter’s BBQ in Sinton, a venue listed on Texas Monthly’s top-50 smokehouse roster, announced that it will no longer serve brisket, the state’s signature cut. Owner and pitmaster Andrew Soto said brisket comprised more than 70 percent of the shop’s inventory bill and that a $1-per-pound rise in wholesale cost would have forced a price of $51 a pound to customers—far above the current $37 rate.
Rising Beef Costs and Industry Pressures
U.S. Department of Agriculture data show average retail beef prices reached a record $9.64 per pound in April, a 13 percent increase from the previous year. Industry experts link the surge to a severe drought that has reduced the national cattle herd to its lowest level in 75 years, higher post-pandemic operating expenses, tighter meat-packer pricing, and tariffs imposed under President Donald Trump. These factors have compressed margins for independent Texas pitmasters.
Impact on Texas Barbecue Operators
Soto reported a 60 percent drop in sales compared with the same weekend last year. To stay afloat, he plans to add smoked beef cheeks as a lower-cost alternative. Other owners echo the strain: Shawn Jones of Kirby’s BBQ in New Caney announced a planned closure at the end of 2025, citing brisket’s outsized cost burden. Recent closures across the state—including Fiasco BBQ in Austin and Lenox Bar-B-Q in Houston—underscore the broader crisis.
Data & Statistics
- Wholesale brisket cost rose $1 per pound in a single week.
- Proposed consumer price for brisket would have been $51 per pound versus $37 previously.
- Brisket accounts for >70 percent of inventory expense at Butter’s BBQ.
- Sales at Butter’s BBQ fell 60 percent year-over-year for a recent weekend.
- Retail beef price: $9.64 per pound in April, up 13 percent YoY.
Verbatim Quotes
- “That was the final straw that broke the camel’s back,” — Andrew Soto, owner, Butter’s BBQ
- “Not a post I’d ever thought I had to make, guys,” — Andrew Soto, owner, Butter’s BBQ
- “With brisket being our biggest seller here in Texas, that is really weighing on our profit margins,” — Shawn Jones, owner, Kirby’s BBQ
- “This is as bad as it gets,” — Russell Roegels, owner, two Houston barbecue spots