Wildflower Meadows Give Somerset Cheddar a Distinct “Terroir”

Tom Calver, a trained chef who runs the Westcombe dairy in the hamlet of Westcombe, Somerset, has set aside six fields for technicolour wildflowers instead of the uniform grass or maize that dominate most local farms. By reducing herd density on these plots, the cows graze a broader mix of plants, which Calver believes enriches their gut microbiome and, consequently, the raw, unpasteurised cheddar’s taste. He describes the result as “meadow-flavoured” cheese that lets consumers “taste the land.”

The Guardian

Calver argues that a varied diet restores a historic “terroir” once common in Somerset’s 850-year cheese tradition. He contrasts today’s reliance on maize and Italian rye grasses with the deep-rooted wildflowers now growing on his meadows, suggesting the broader plant intake creates a more complex microbial profile in the milk and a distinctive flavour profile in the cheese.

The Guardian

The shift comes with a measurable cost: Calver says the approach has reduced milk output. He also notes that the resulting cheese varies in taste from batch to batch, making it difficult for retailers to market a consistent product. These factors combine to raise production expenses, a challenge he acknowledges but deems worthwhile for the sensory benefits.

The Guardian

During the current year’s drought, the wildflower strips—particularly chicory with deep roots—have accessed subsoil moisture and helped keep the pastures greener than surrounding fields. Calver reports that neighboring farmers have taken notice, with some expressing interest in adopting similar practices.

The Guardian

• “Other farmers thought we were nuts for doing this,” — Farmer Tom Calver

The Guardian

• “We have actually lost milk production in what we’re doing,” — Farmer Tom Calver

The Guardian

• “If you look at the diversity of what cows have been eating before, we were growing lots of maize and Italian rye grasses,” — Farmer Tom Calver

The Guardian