Maria Grazia Chiuri's Debut at Fendi: A New Era in Milan Fashion

Maria Grazia Chiuri made her highly anticipated debut as the creative director of Fendi on February 25, 2026, during Milan Fashion Week. This event marked a significant return for Chiuri, who began her career at Fendi at age 24 and spent a decade there before moving to Valentino and later leading Dior. Her appointment follows the departure of Silvia Venturini Fendi, and Chiuri aims to honor the brand's matriarchal heritage while introducing her own vision.

The Guardian

Chiuri's inaugural collection was encapsulated by the motto "Less I, more us," prominently displayed on the runway. This phrase reflects her commitment to collaboration and community, echoing the legacy of Fendi's founding sisters. The collection featured a mix of classic wardrobe staples, such as tailored suits and trench coats, alongside more modern pieces like cargo pants and oversized blazers. Chiuri's designs also included eveningwear that showcased her signature flattering silhouettes, appealing to contemporary women's lifestyles.

Elle Magazine

Fendi's history as a fur house presented challenges, which Chiuri addressed by using only archival fur and introducing a new atelier for repurposing vintage furs. This approach aligns with her vision of sustainability while maintaining the brand's luxurious identity. The iconic Baguette bag, co-designed by Chiuri in the 1990s, was reimagined in various textures and prints, highlighting her connection to Fendi's past.

The Guardian

Chiuri's tenure at Fendi is characterized by her commitment to women's empowerment, a theme she previously championed at Dior. For her debut collection, she collaborated with artist Mirella Bentivoglio on jewelry and partnered with SAGG Napoli for graphic tees and slogan scarves. Chiuri's designs continue to reflect feminist ideals, although the messaging is more subtle compared to her previous work. She noted that the collection aims to "accommodate" and "make visible" desires, suggesting a nuanced exploration of femininity.

Elle Magazine

While Chiuri's debut was met with excitement, it also sparked debate regarding the provocative imagery used in promotional materials. Some critics questioned whether the visuals, which hinted at BDSM themes, could be seen as disempowering. Others compared her approach to past campaigns by Tom Ford, highlighting the tension between empowerment and objectification in fashion.

We Should All Be Fetishists: Unpacking Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi debut

Chiuri's first show at Fendi signals a new chapter for the brand, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibilities. Her focus on collaboration and female empowerment suggests that her leadership will continue to evolve the Fendi narrative. As she stated, her goal is to honor the brand's legacy while moving it into the future, ensuring that the spirit of "Less I, more us" resonates throughout her tenure.

The Guardian