Reviving Catalonia's Culinary Tradition: The Esmorzar de Forquilla Movement

In the autumn of 2020, journalist Albert Molins initiated a grassroots movement to revive the Catalan tradition of esmorzar de forquilla, or "fork breakfast." This hearty meal, typically enjoyed between breakfast and lunch, consists of a main dish, wine, bread, and coffee, often costing less than €15. Historically, esmorzar de forquilla originated in the 19th century as a laborers' meal in rural Catalonia, designed to provide sustenance for the afternoon work. Today, it is celebrated in traditional establishments across the region, featuring dishes such as trinxat (a potato and cabbage hash), fricandó (stewed veal and mushrooms), and cap i pota (a rich stew of veal head and feet).

The Guardian

Molins' initiative began with a simple Google Maps listing that allowed users to share their favorite esmorzar spots. This effort gained significant traction, leading to the development of the EsmorzApp, which has further connected enthusiasts of this culinary tradition. Gerard Llopart, owner of Gelida in Barcelona's Eixample neighborhood, noted a rise in popularity among younger diners, indicating a shift in the demographic enjoying esmorzar. The movement has fostered a sense of community among locals and visitors alike, encouraging tourists to engage with Catalan culture through its culinary heritage.

The Guardian

While the revival of esmorzar de forquilla is celebrated, it is essential to acknowledge the limitations of this culinary movement. Critics point out that vegetarian and alternative options within this tradition are scarce. Molins himself emphasizes that the esmorzar is not inherently "better or worse" than brunch; rather, it represents a significant aspect of Catalonia's history. This nuanced perspective highlights the importance of cultural preservation while recognizing the evolving nature of food traditions.

The Guardian

The esmorzar de forquilla movement is not merely about food; it reflects a broader response to the challenges of overtourism in Catalonia. While initiatives like EsmorzApp may not single-handedly resolve the impacts of tourism, they promote local culture and encourage visitors to partake in authentic experiences. Molins hopes to see more tourists frequenting traditional esmorzar venues, thereby supporting local businesses and preserving culinary heritage.

The Guardian

Albert Molins has expressed his desire for tourists to engage with the esmorzar tradition, stating, “I don’t encounter enough tourists in these traditional esmorzar places.” This sentiment underscores the movement's goal of fostering cultural exchange and appreciation among visitors.

The Guardian

• “better or worse than brunch, but it’s our history” — Albert Molins, Journalist

The Guardian

• “But it’s wonderful to see people come together to share an aspect of local culture dear to them, in such a way that even a tourist can take part.” — Anonymous Commentator

The Guardian

• “Un cap i pota, si us plau?” — Albert Molins, encouraging tourists to embrace the tradition.

The Guardian

The esmorzar de forquilla movement exemplifies how culinary traditions can thrive through community engagement and cultural appreciation, offering a unique experience for both locals and visitors in Catalonia.

The Guardian