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Tyler Andrews Sets Oxygen-Assisted Everest Record 9h55m

5/28/2026

Summary

Tyler Andrews Record

Tyler Andrews set an oxygen-assisted Everest speed record of 9 h 55 m, leaving Base Camp at 7:11 p.m. on May 27 and summiting at 5:06 a.m. on May 28, 2026.
The time beats Lakpa Gelu Sherpa’s 2003 record of 10 h 56 m by over an hour.
He used supplemental bottled oxygen after earlier attempts without oxygen were halted near Camp Two at 26,400 feet.
Nepal tourism officials and independent trackers will verify the ascent time after his descent.

Summary

Andrews Skips South

Andrews announced he will not attempt South Side climb or a no-oxygen Fastest Known Time there after five failures, as China kept the North Side closed.
He began using oxygen at 4 liters per minute and wondered why climbers use not higher rates.
He noted that climbers view Everest speed records skeptically because conditions and technology vary yearly, and Fastest Known Time rules permit a style with oxygen, ropes, Sherpa help.

Summary

Kami Rita Limits

Crowding surged with over 950 climbers on ropes, prompting Kami Rita Sherpa, after his 32nd summit, to urge permit limits.
Five climbers—two Indians and three Nepalis—died in 2026 during summit preparations, a drop from 18 fatalities in 2023, while a United States (U.S.) and Czech climber also died on Makalu this month.
Andrews, a cancer survivor, is raising funds for youth athletes lacking coaching and equipment in Ecuador and Nepal.

History

Historical Context

The 1996 Mount Everest disaster, in which eight climbers perished during a sudden storm, sparked worldwide scrutiny of high-altitude tourism. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism capped permits at 200, while Adventure Consultants and Mountain Madness limited groups to six, reducing summit traffic by 30 %. Today, Tyler Andrews’ oxygen-assisted 9-hour-55-minute ascent and the 950 climbers crowding the 2026 season echo the permit-debate, with Sherpa leaders like Kami Rita urging stricter limits. The legacy of 1996 drives ongoing calls for regulated oxygen use, permit quotas, and safety protocols to prevent further fatalities on Everest and neighboring peaks.

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Tyler Andrews Record

Tyler Andrews set an oxygen-assisted Everest speed record of 9 h 55 m, leaving Base Camp at 7:11 p.m. on May 27 and summiting at 5:06 a.m. on May 28, 2026.
The time beats Lakpa Gelu Sherpa’s 2003 record of 10 h 56 m by over an hour.
He used supplemental bottled oxygen after earlier attempts without oxygen were halted near Camp Two at 26,400 feet.
Nepal tourism officials and independent trackers will verify the ascent time after his descent.

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