Full Breakdown
New Oxygen-Assisted Speed Record on Everest
5/28/2026, 11:40:46 PM
New Oxygen-Assisted Speed Record on Everest
American climber Tyler Andrews reached the summit of Mount Everest in 9 hours 55 minutes on 27–28 May 2026, surpassing the 2003 oxygen-assisted record of 10 hours 56 minutes. The time awaits formal verification by Nepal’s mountain authorities.
Season Context and Prior Attempts
The 2026 spring window saw about 950 summiters and five fatalities, fewer than the 18 deaths in 2023. Andrews had made several no-oxygen attempts earlier in the season, each aborted by weather, avalanche risk or oxygen shortage.
Main Participants
Key actors include Tyler Andrews, team leader Dawa Steven Sherpa of Asian Trekking, the expedition’s support staff, Nepali climber Kami Rita Sherpa, and the Chaski Foundation, a charity co-founded by Andrews to aid youth athletes in Ecuador and Nepal.
Brief Timeline of the Ascent
Andrews left Base Camp at 19:11 local time, reached Camp 1 after 2 h 08 min, Camp 2 at 3 h 16 min, Camp 3 at 4 h 47 min, Camp 4 at 6 h 46 min, and the summit at 05:06 local on 28 May.
Statistics
The new time of 9 h 55 min beats Lakpa Gelu Sherpa’s 2003 mark by 61 minutes. Andrews has logged over 85 mountain and trail records worldwide and holds FKTs on Manaslu, Ama Dablam, Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua.
Significance and Debate
The achievement revives discussion on speed-climbing ethics, especially the separation of oxygen-assisted and unsupported categories. It also highlights crowding concerns on the South Side, where queues have lengthened compared with the previous year.
Official Statements
Dawa Steven Sherpa confirmed the 9 h 55 min summit time. Asian Trekking reported that guides supplied supplementary oxygen, food, water and tracked the climb. Kami Rita Sherpa emphasized the need for authorities to manage climber numbers. Nepal’s tourism ministry indicated the time will be reviewed before official recognition.
Criticism and Opposition
Observers note that oxygen-assisted records depend on evolving equipment and weather, making cross-year comparisons problematic. Kami Rita Sherpa’s call for crowd control reflects broader safety worries as the season’s “long line of people” strains fixed-rope sections.
Conflicting Reports and Gaps
Sources differ on when Andrews began using bottled oxygen; some cite Camp 2, others are vague. Nepal’s authorities have not yet confirmed the 9 h 55 min figure, and no round-trip oxygen-assisted speed record exists for comparison.
Verbatim Quotes
- “He reached Everest's peak in just 9 hours 55 minutes,” — Dawa Steven Sherpa, Team Leader, Asian Trekking
- “I've been training as an athlete all the way from high school cross country to running marathons to running in the mountains and, you know, Mount Everest is kind of the pinnacle of all of that,” — Tyler Andrews
- “No, it doesn’t take anything away from me,” — Tyler Andrews
- “There is a need for authorities to control this number.” — Kami Rita Sherpa
- “I am done with the South Side,” — Tyler Andrews
Outlook
Nepal’s officials are expected to verify the time in the coming weeks. Andrews said he will not attempt another South-Side speed climb, indicating a shift toward other projects and continued debate over record categories.
